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A self-proclaimed food snob’s personal guide to dining out on Cape Ann
I am a food snob.
There. I said it. Now let me explain.
First, I’m offended by the use of ‘snob’ as the noun in ‘food snob,’ but I’ve been called one enough times to finally succumb to it. I will, however, take this opportunity to squeeze in the fact that ‘food connoisseur’ sounds a heck-of-a-lot better.
The truth is that I’m the absolute worst dinner date ever. Or am I the best?
It depends on how you look at it.
If you ask my mother about my relationship with food, she’ll tell you I’m ridiculous. Mention my food snobbery, or even someone else’s, to my boyfriend and I can bet that he’d probably stand up from his seat, outstretch his arms — as if he were an umpire declaring a runner safe at home — and say something like, “Oh, you want to talk about food snobs?!” Then he’d share his bit about me not liking so-and-so place for such-and-such reason, or the fact that my pizza preference is mood dependent.
I simply care more than the average person about where I choose to get my food and what I choose to order once I’m there.
A friend of mine recently had an eat-in date on the books and she came to me for advice.
“He’s bringing the food,” she explained. “Where should I tell him to go?” She turned to me, she said, because I’m “decisive and duly critical” with all things food. I can’t argue with that.
So, maybe you’ll take my word for it when I share my go-to list of all places for grab-and-go and call-it-dinner options on our Cape. Because going out doesn’t have to mean going in.
Take my word for it, or leave it, but I suggest you don’t pass it up because you’ll be missing out on some pretty tasty eats. Here goes ...
Short & Main
There’s “dinner pizza” and there’s eat-in-the-rough, hangover, family-party type of pizza.
I certainly don’t discriminate against either kind. It all depends on my mood. When I’m feeling like “dinner pizza,” Short & Main is my spot. The pizza here is as close to Italian pizza as I’ve been able to get my hands on in this entire country. It flops, it bubbles, it’s crunchy-but-soft, and the medley of flavors that goes into all of their signature pizzas is unmatched.
With a menu that changes daily you’re sure to always discover a new favorite. Bring it home and pair it with a bottle of red or head to the beach for a picnic in the sand after a long day in the sun.
Either way, here are my favorites:
Margherita: My go-to. Whenever I order from Short & Main, getting the Margherita is a requirement. It’s a perfect party of basil, tomato, mozzarella, and wood-fired goodness in your mouth. For every signature slice I balance it out with a slice of the Classic. That’s the best way to enjoy the fancier selections — break them up with an appreciation for the simple.
Rosso: Don’t look over this pick just because it lacks mozzarella. This pizza is all about the sauce, which has a little kick from the hot pepper. If you’re into spicy, then go for it. Tip: Add on the Iron Ox arugula. You won’t be sorry.
Louis Prima: The sausage that these guys put on their pizzas is heaven sent. I’m not sure why it’s so good. It just is. Mozzarella, basil, tomato, red onion, hot pepper, and sausage. This one sells itself. That is all.
■ Short & Main, Main Street, Gloucester. (978) 281-0044. Open year-round: Mon, Wed, Thu, 5–10pm, Fri-Sat, 5–11pm, Sun, 10am–2pm, 5–10pm.
Surfside Subs & Pizza
When you’re not in a “dinner pizza” mood, Surfside Subs will extinguish all your burning pizza cravings.
It takes care of that pizza craving you get when you’re in the mood for just good-old-fashioned pizza. The kind of American pizza you devour at family cookouts and birthday parties. The kind of pizza you eat standing up. The type you pair with a beer and wash down with an ice cream or two.
First off, these pies are huge. They’ve got thin crust, and they’re floppy. (But in a good way). They’re so thin that you can pack in more slices than usual, even though each slice is just about as big as your head.
As with Short & Main, the Margherita pizza is probably my favorite here. The sauce is chunky and the slice is foldable. I like to fold my slice in half and then flop the pointy part of the triangle onto itself before I take my first bite. You can eat it however you want. But this is clearly the best way to go about it.
If you’re a ranch dressing-and-pizza kind of person (I am in all instances. Except for dinner-pizza instances), this kind of pizza is ideal. Another favorite from Surfside is the Vegetarian. It feels kind of like a salad in pizza form with white garlic sauce instead of the typical tomato. It’s covered with mushrooms, peppers, onions, olives, and artichokes, so you’re simultaneously getting in your pizza fill and your daily dose of veggies.
■ Surfside Subs & Pizza, 147 Thatcher Road, Rockport. (978) 281-1700. Seasonal: Every day, 11am–8pm.
Happy Belly’s goal is to spread happiness and I’m certainly not going to argue with that. This is a perfect place to grab a quick salad, sandwiches made with daily baked breads, cold brews, and even fresh, house-baked pastries.
You come here when you’re in the mood for something a little different.
It’s a place where you don’t have to cheat to eat. There are plenty of healthy options made with fresh and locally sourced ingredients on this menu. And if you’re hanging with a gluten-free or vegetarian human, there are plenty of options for them, too.
Order at the counter, grab a Nitro Cold Brew while you wait, then take your yum and go. Some notable options: Breakfast Burrito, Kale Salad, Crispy Crunchy Chicken Salad, Happy Burger, Pho and Ramen bowls, Chicken and Waffles, and Crispy Pork Belly Tacos. There’s plenty of interesting and healthy eats to experiment with.
■ Happy Belly, 3 Duncan Street, Gloucester. (978) 281-3997. Open year-round: Every day, 7am–9pm.
Mediterranean flavors to go? My vote is yes! Let me just say that the people who work here are so incredibly friendly — and fast! The last time I called in an order, it was ready five minutes later and I was greeted the second I walked through the door.
This is a place where regulars call in their order, arrive early for pickup, and catch up with the owners while they wait. During my last visit the cook was grilling chicken while asking the next customer in line where he was at lunchtime. “Oh, you went golfing today? We missed you at lunch,” he said.
This is another clean-eats spot. The Chicken Shish Kebob salad or bowl is a good pick. So is the Chicken Gyro bowl. It’s prepared the traditional Turkish way on a rotisserie, shaved off, and served in thin slices. Their tzatziki sauce is delicious. I always get it as one of my toppings. The menu is simple, but has all the options you’d look for when you’re feeling Mediterranean. Falafel, Lamb Adana, and Baklava included.
■ Paprika Grill, 185 Washington Street, Gloucester. (978) 551-8186. Open year-round: Mon–Thu, 11am–8pm, Fri-Sat, 11am–9pm, Closed Sun.
Common Crow Natural Market
Ever since it moved to its new location on Pond Road, the Crow has been one of my favorite places to stop for a quick meal to go. Plain and simple.
My favorite is their Tex-Mex Burrito (which can also be ordered as a bowl). I usually substitute chicken or pork for the beef. I’ll almost always grab their house-made Lemon Garlic Hummus and some crackers to go with it, even though the burrito itself weighs about a pound-and-a-half on its own.
Other favorites: Thai Chicken, the Cluckingham Palace, Spicy Sausage and Kale soup, Beef Chili, Chicken Salad Salad. They also offer smoothie specials, so keep an eye out!
■ Common Crow Natural Market, 200 Eastern Avenue, Gloucester. (978) 283-1665. Open year-round: Every day 8am–8pm
The Lobster Pool
The Lobster Roll here is unmatched. It’s so good, in fact, that I ordered it the first time I went to The Lobster Pool and haven’t bothered to order anything else. Ever.
And that’s fine by me. The bun on this baby is sweet, buttery, and toasty on the outside and soft on the inside. The lobster is packed with all the flavors you look for in fresh lobster meat. There’s no fuss, just lobster. Tender, sweet, crisp, chunky, hunks of lobster.
If you do end up here, bring yourself a bottle of wine to sip on while you wait. The Lobster Pool is BYOB and eat-in-the-rough. Around back you’ll find people with full bellies and their favorite beverages awaiting another glorious summer sunset.
You haven’t seen a sunset until you’ve seen a Lobster Pool sunset.
■ The Lobster Pool, 329 Granite St, Rockport. (978) 546-7808. Seasonal: Thu–Sun, 11:30am–8pm.
“I’m gonna do the burger.”
That’s exactly what you should be saying when you go to Superfine. It’s the best burger I’ve experienced around these parts. It’s like a high-class Big Mac®. Char on a burger is something I underestimated, until Superfine. It’s the kind of thing you don’t realize you’re missing out on until you taste it. I’ve added the Superfine burger to my mental Best Burger list, which now has three burgers populating it. (The others? The burger at Riversbend in Essex (huge double decker amazingness), and the other is from Barbara Lynch’s DRINK, which is a speakeasy-type place in the Boston Seaport. Get the fries with it! And if you’re in New York City, definitely check out Black Tap’s burgers. Unforgettable.)
The atmosphere here is amazingly low-key and their to go counter makes things super-easy. You can also place your order on their super-cool website and have it all ready when you get there.
Other amazing picks at Superfine: I highly recommend the Warm Brown Rice bowl, and the Crunchy Chicken, Whiskey Glazed Ribs, and the Brussels Sprout Pizza are all on my list to try.
■ Superfine, 25 Union St, Manchester. (978) 526-0964. Open year-round: Every day 11:30am–10pm.
See? There is a silver lining when it comes to being a food snob, and that is that you’ll never go without good food. Never.
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St. Peter’s Fiesta is a five day festival honoring the patron saint of the fisherman. The festival is put on by the Italian American community of Gloucester, Massachusetts.
Complete schedule of Events
WEDNESDAY, JUNE 21
Musical Entertainment @ St. Peter’s Park: Barry Mooney and The Sounds of Legends
FRIDAY, JUNE 23
Greasy Pole contest & Women’s Seine Boat races @ Pavilion Beach
Entertainment: Before Opening Ceremonies
Formal Opening: St. Peter’s Square
7:30 – 11:30 pm
Entertainment Paul London and Jimmy Geany
SATURDAY, JUNE 24
Seine Boat Race @ Pavilion Beach:
U.S. Coast Guard vs Gloucester Fire Department and Gloucester Police Department
Children’s Games @ Beach Court
Sports Events @ Pavilion Beach
Seine Boat Races & Greasy Pole Contest
8:00 – 11:30 pm
Musical entertainment @ St. Peter’s Square: Oasis
SUNDAY, JUNE 25
Celebration of Mass of St. Peter @ St. Peter’s Park
Procession following the Celebration of Outdoor Mass
Blessing of the Fleet @ Stacy Boulevard
Concert @ St. Peter’s Park: Cape Ann Big Band
Sports Events @ Pavilion Beach: Seine Boat Races & Greasy Pole contest
Children’s Pinata Contest @ Pascucci Court
Awards Ceremony: Trophies awarded to winners of the Sports Events
Musical entertainment @ St. Peter’s Park: Franco Corso
Raffle Drawings and Closing Procession
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Lisa Hahn keeps the dream of her mother, the noted dancer Ina Hahn, alive in Pigeon Cove
The sign is very easy to miss when you’re driving through Rockport’s Pigeon Cove. But the Windhover mystique is by design.
“Ina wanted it that way,” says Lisa Hahn, Executive Director of the Windhover Center for the Performing Arts. “My mother (Ina Hahn) believed that Windhover was a place of magic, beauty, and discovery. She cultivated the secret. She deliberately just hung the sign on Granite Street with no explanation and no marketing. She wanted people to discover it for themselves.”
Deliberate and mysterious, Windhover is a little village of one-of-a-kind buildings: a few cottages, a chapel, a barn, a dance studio, and an outdoor stage. Originally a small farm — the last working farm in the Cove — it was redesigned in 1967 as a performing arts center for dance and theater by Ina Hahn and her husband, Herbert. Fifty years later, its mission is the same: to showcase quality performances designed to foster imagination and connection to the outdoors.
Windhover is more than just a place. It is the life-long dream of its founder. To understand the place, one must also understand Ina, a world-renowned modern dance choreographer, a Broadway star, and Rockport resident who made sure the art of dance merged with the already rich artistic tradition of Cape Ann. Ina died in January, 2016, at the age of 86.
Windhover is a magical place.
Young and old are drawn to Windhover. Dance is magical, and it is the natural movement of children. My mother’s work has some of that magic in it, too.
How did it get its start?
When my father and mother saw the property in 1967, it was a transformational moment — it all came together. They knew in an instant that it could become a performing arts center with a dance studio.
Windhover is the best part of my parents coming together and dreaming. My father was a self-taught architect and collector of antiques, as well as a teacher of English literature. He looked for churches that were run down and would buy the architectural salvage and stained-glass windows. He was a collector before he bought Windhover. He transformed all the buildings on the property.
The small cottages, which are individually named, are original outbuildings, including my favorite: the former slaughterhouse. I remember looking down at the floor of the building and my father saying, ‘We are going to put in a new floor and a Tiffany lamp and this place will be called Tiffany!’ Wood Nymph was the chicken coop. The Music Barn was a horse stable. My father built some of the buildings from scratch; the Chapel is one of them. The dance studio is the other. It’s the last building he worked on before he died.
You’re known for the Quarry Dances.
The Quarry Dances are art and nature together. My mother believed in the art of dance in natural surroundings which is why Windhover meant so much to her. It was a quintessential idea of hers, having dance outdoors, no fuss, not a lot of sets, not a lot of stuff. It’s about the wind and the trees, and even the turkeys, the flowers, the plants, the stars. The natural backdrop of the stage — there really is nothing like it.
I never got to see Ina’s choreography performed. Do you have a favorite piece?
Many people who come to Windhover are unaware of my mother’s choreography. It is my intention to reconstruct some of her works this summer so that people can get reacquainted with it. I would like to revive one of Ina’s iconic pieces called “Cycle.” This dance was my mother’s favorite. It’s about the cycle of life, a short piece about a mother and child that is no more than five minutes. The dance begins with a young child who is dependent on the mother. Then, the dance shifts to a duet depicting the time the mother and child spend together as equals. As the mother fails, the child takes her place. The dancers end as they began yet have changed places. This piece is never dated and represents one of the big ideas that she worked with.
Your mother achieved a certain level of fame in the dance world, yet here she was in Rockport of all places! How did she get her big break?
Ina was born to move and loved dance. She went to Newton High School and graduated from Wellesley College in 1950. She moved to New York, danced in small repertoire company productions, and auditioned for Broadway. Her first Broadway show was The King and I, but her big break was when she was cast as the understudy to Gwen Verdon in Can-Can.
My mother would tell this story like it was yesterday. Gwen hurt her shoulder early on in the show. It was a Saturday night, and there was a matinee performance earlier in the day. Before the evening show, she went to dinner, had a glass of wine, and walked back to the theater. The cast was waiting for her, saying “You’re on! You’re on tonight!” and she was like, “Oh my God, I’m the understudy and tonight I’ll be the star of the show.”
She had an extraordinary performance that was written up in all the New York papers, with headlines like “Ina Hahn, the understudy is now the lead in Can-Can.” It was a discovery moment. She went from Can-Can to other major shows on Broadway like Plain and Fancy and worked with the choreographers she most revered like Michael Kidd and Jerome Robbins.
She felt that Michael Kidd was more brilliant than Robbins. Until her dying day, she wanted a dance company to revive Kidd’s choreography. She had Broadway fame, which never left her.
Describe Ina’s influence on modern dance.
Martha Graham and Doris Humphrey are the iconic figures of modern dance. Ina was a contemporary of Paul Taylor and José Limón, all of whom are second-generation choreographers of modern dance. Third generation choreographers influenced by them include creators like Dusan Tynek, a Czech choreographer, who choreographs the Quarry Dance. Ina discovered Dusan in New York and loved that he used literature and art for his subject matter, just like she did.
How did Ina discover modern dance?
She discovered serious modern dance during a summer dance program at Connecticut College in New London, Conn. That’s where she met Doris Humphrey. She also enrolled in dance classes with Martha Graham in New York City. Graham offered Ina a position in the soon-to-be-famous Martha Graham Dance Company. My mother did not take that position. She was fond of telling us that she never regretted what she had done, and tried to make positive choices, but that was one decision she looked back on and wondered what life would have been like had she taken it.
In an interesting twist, Ina actually ended up working against Martha Graham’s style. She knew the technique, knew the pieces, had performed them, and felt that the technique was filled with angst, that it was restricting, and overly dramatic. It was egotistical choreography about the star and the lead character, who Martha always played. It was hierarchical. When my mother discovered Doris Humphrey, it was the exact opposite.
What was your mother’s connection with Doris Humphrey?
Doris had a technique that was in keeping with how my mother moved and danced and her philosophical beliefs. Humphrey’s dance was about joy and passion, based on gravity — falling away and coming back. Humphrey talked about her work as being the arch between two deaths. The two deaths are absolute vertical, which is stasis, and absolute horizontal, also stasis; motions that are motionless. Exciting movement happens in the arch between the two. It is a beautiful, elegant, simple vision. Humphrey was an early pioneer in modern dance, ahead of her time. A visionary. She was at her most creative just as modern dance was being freed from ballet and the constraints of the past.
Doris Humphrey wrote a seminal book about modern dance called The Art of Making Dances. My mother felt this book was her bible. She taught it, breathed it, experienced it, and passed the philosophy onto generations. It was part of her being. I refer to that book often to remind me about what it takes to make a great dance. As an audience member you want to have a critical eye.
These early visionaries, including my mother, used metaphors that were inspired by poetry, literature, art, and music. Dance is the physical manifestation of that inspiration.
Did she have an overall philosophy that carried throughout her work?
Ina’s focus was on big ideas and serving those ideas. She wanted to serve the pure joy of moving. One of her pieces is called “The Pleasure of Merely Circulating.” This dance is similar to Paul Taylor’s “Esplanade,” which I think is one of the great masterpieces of modern dance. It celebrates moving, starts with walks, moves into runs and skips and falls and leaping into arms. It is a gripping feeling of the joy of moving in the world, movements that everyone can do and graduating to more complicated movements.
How did Ina go about her work?
Some of the earliest memories I have of my mother are embedded in choreography. She was always creating. My mother never stayed still. She was always working. She did floor work, barre work, and she practiced every day.
Much of her choreography came from surprises. She had a beautiful studio on Center Street in Gloucester. Later, she moved her classes to the dance studio here at Windhover. Members of her dance company would work on concepts that she choreographed in the studio by herself. But, when the choreography is translated to the dancers, mistakes can happen. My mother wanted to capture those moments. She would say, “That mistake that you think you just made, that was brilliant. Do it again!” Or, “Stop. Freeze. Go back and repeat.”
Was she connected to other artists on Cape Ann?
Cape Ann was important to her. She did a piece honoring the Folly Cove Designers. Luckily, the Folly Cove Designers are becoming better known as a result of the Cape Ann Museum’s permanent exhibit. Ina brought these designs and textiles to life through the movement of dance. There is one dance called The Gossips, which is based on a design by Virginia Lee Burton Demetrios. Ina believed these women needed to be celebrated, so why not do it in dance?
What’s happening with Windhover now that you have taken over as its director?
I am continuing Ina’s legacy while also having my own vision going forward. Windhover will be a summer-only performing arts center focused on dance, theater, and movement. I hope to have experimental theater return.
Of course, we will continue to host well-known dance companies, including the Dusan Tynek Dance Theater and the Paul Taylor 2 Dance Company. The Dusan Tynek Dance Company will return this summer in July for Quarry Dance 6 and a two-week dance intensive for teens. Paul Taylor 2 will be back for a mini dance festival in late June. We are exploring ideas with Rockport Music, which may include open rehearsals or master classes here.
Our most exciting news is that Windhover is forging ahead to build a new indoor theater. We do not have enough space currently to accommodate a large audience if we need to move a performance inside due to inclement weather. Ina was behind the indoor theater, which will help us expand and maintain the natural, rustic, magical beauty of the place.
Ina founded Windhover based on the connection between dance, performance, and nature. The architecture and design of this special place will remain intact as will the overall vision my parents had for Windhover, bringing the visual arts into the out of doors in harmony with nature.
► Windhover Center for the Performing Arts, 257 Granite Street, Rockport. (978) 546 3611. The 2017 season begins with a dance performance by Paul Taylor 2 Dance Company on Thursday, June 29 at 7:30pm. For more details, visit the website.
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